Finally got the parts in the mail, I left the G25 disassembled the whole week and it was lying on my room floor, starting to get a little obnoxious. Here’s a shot of the broken FET.
I ordered 2x both N and P channel dual FETs, although only the IRF7103PBF was actually shorted on mine.
Proceeded to solder the replacement in.
I just held it on top of the pads and tacked on corner on. Then adjusted the whole IC until everything lined up and completed soldering it on. Not the cleanest job, because some of the pads on the board have no mask, so it looks like a couple of pins are shorting, but electrically it’s alright.
I then proceeded to re-assemble the motor and linear gear together.
I left the wheel installation out till I could see if the wheel would fire up and calibrate. During re-assembly I just put the linear rack gear somewhere in the middle and ta-da, it worked during power up and could calibrate properly.
There was a little bit of arcing and smell from the cleaned up motor though, I suspect the brushes haven’t bedded in properly yet. I then plugged and unplugged the wheel a couple of times to get it to cycle the calibration process more and that fixed itself. There was also some cogging present initially, that’s also fixed.
Proceeded to finally play some GT5. 
Great writeup! The pics are a great help.
ReplyDeleteHow is it working now that you've used it a bit since the repair?
Finally got around to reordering replacement MOSFETS this morning myself (original order never arrived) and stumbled onto your blog. They'll hopefully arrive early next week so this will be a great help.
It's working great, just as good as new, you do have to give the motor a bit of time to break in abit after the cleaning process. I found mine was arching a fair bit.
DeleteI guess you could take the motor out and power it up so it keeps spinning to wear in the brushes.
If you can't find the right MOSFETs, I'd be happy to send the other set I have for the same price as I got it plus postage.
Got the mosfets and replaced both of them yesterday. No luck though :(
ReplyDeleteScrewed everything back together plugged it all in and nothing. Both leds flash on the shifter twice then the shifter led (left one) stays lit but the power led stays dim. No response from the wheel.
Are you interested in fixing my PCB? I will compensate fully. The wheel doesn't seem to have any power, checked the input with a multimeter and it read 24V so I suspect it is something in the PCB. I just don't have the capabilities of fixing it on my own.
ReplyDelete